Potions of the Caribbean

Posted by TraderTiki on May 20th, 2008 — Posted in Don the Beachcomber, Events, Tales 2008, Trader Vic

Cross-posted from Talesblog.com, the official blog of the 2008 Tales of the Cocktail.

Tales of the Cocktail is only a two months away, even a bit less at this point. At this time, thoughts of drunkenly gallivanting about, discussing the business of the boozeness, and many handshakes and business card exchanges swirl about in my head. Between the lectures and the briefings, the tastings and the dealing, where can a guy just relax and get a drink?

Good thing someone thought to talk to a bum about this. A Beachbum, in fact, who, along with a few other panelists, will be providing a trip through the tropics on Saturday, July 19th, with their presentation “Potions of the Caribbean: Lost Cocktails from America’s Post War Playground“. Here, the crowd will be whisked away from the muggy Louisiana summer to a cool Caribbean isle (or at least a room with decent air conditioning), with tropical libations all around.

Along with featured presenter Jeff “Beachbum” Berry, the four panelists are all widely traveled personae with their own take on tropical libations and the Caribbean scene. These prestigious paragons of paneling are Wayne Curtis, author of the essential book And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails; Martin Cate, owner of the celebrated Forbidden Island Tiki bar by the San Francisco Bay; Brother Cleve, the Boston-based mixologist who kick-started the 1990s “Cocktail Nation” movement with his band Combustible Edison; and Steven Remsberg, owner of the world’s largest private rum collection. They’ll be backed up by some real firepower behind the TOC bar as well, since our sample drinks will be mixed by three of the Blogosphere’s premiere Tiki drink experts: Rick Stutz of Kaiser Penguin, Blair Reynolds, aka Trader Tiki, and Craig Hermann of Tiki Drinks & Indigo Firmaments.

The welcoming drink, as in the days when a bowl of punch was expected when dropping by a neighbor’s, will be the 17th-century Meeting House Punch. Contrary to popular belief, during the great age of piracy the buccaneers’ drink of choice was not a bottle of rum, but a bowl of rum punch. Punches were all the rage even among cut-throats like John Rackham. After all, what goes better with plunder than sugar and a few slices of lime?

The presentation will begin in the Caribbean after WWII, when Jamaica, Cuba and Puerto Rico all developed their tourist industries to compete with Hawaii as the “other” exotic vacation paradise. They built lavish resorts, where they served inventive tropical cocktails inspired by the Tiki drinks served in America’s wildly popular Polynesian-themed bars. The bum and the other presenters will be talking about the people behind this era … a story which actually starts hundreds of years before, when the first visitors to the area also brought their own drink recipes with them.

Since the Spanish “discovered” the Caribbean, invading hordes have continually tried to turn it into something else. For the Conquistadors, the Caribbean was “New Spain”; for the Edwardian English, Jamaica was “The New Riviera”; for 1940s Americans, Havana was “The Las Vegas Of The Caribbean”; and for the multinational resort developers of the 1960s, the Caribbean was “Hawaii In The Atlantic.” And whatever the incarnation, there were always new drinks served.

La FloridaJeff “Beachbum” Berry will start the seminar off by tracing Caribbean drink history up to Cuba’s transformation into America’s playground during Prohibition, when famous bartenders like Constantine Ribailagua invented drinks like the La Florida Cocktail (the next drink sample). The bum will also take a look at Sloppy Joe Abeal, who created exotic cocktails for thirsty American celebrities like Ernest Hemingway.

Martin Cate will then take the floor to detail the native spirits, spices and fruits that are unique to the Caribbean, which Don The Beachcomber encountered on his travels to the region in the 1920s — and brought to Hollywood, using them as his inspiration for the first “Tiki Drinks.”

Rum PotAs the third sample is served, a Trader Vic concoction called the Rum Pot, Wayne will reveal how the Tiki cycle went full circle with the story of Trader Vic in the Caribbean: Like Don The Beachcomber, Vic learned how to make tropical drinks by travelling to Cuba. When his restaurant expanded into a chain, he opened a lavish Trader Vic’s in Havana — just in time for Castro’s revolutionaries to storm it.

In the next round, Brother Cleve will delve deeper into the post-WWII “Hawaii In The Atlantic” tourist pitch that led to Caribbean resorts creating their own Tiki-style Drinks, such as the oeuvre of St. Croix’s Weston Huggins and Puerto Rico’s Joe Scialom.

Jasper's JamaicanThe final drink sampled will be a Jasper’s Jamaican cocktail, served while Stephen Remsberg recounts the aftermath of “Atlantic Hawaii”: When the Tiki craze fizzled in the 1970s, Caribbean bartenders went back to their own kind of indigenous cocktails. Stephen, who sampled these bartenders’ wares back in the 1970s, will demo how to properly make a Jasper’s Jamaican, a drink developed by the most legendary of these bartenders, Jasper LeFranc.

Tickets for the session are available on the Tales of the Cocktail website. Hope to see you there!

(note - special thanks to the bum for providing such great information!)


TotC contest: Veilleés Punch

Posted by TraderTiki on March 19th, 2008 — Posted in Rum, Tales 2008

Since it’s the day past now, I thought I’d share my official entry for the Tales of the Cocktail punch contest. The winning recipe will snag a few bucks, and will be the official drink of the 2008 event. I put together this dandy with much testing, some Old NOLA Rum borrowed from Lance, and some “things” I had sitting about. A few drinks into the development, I hit upon this dandy, and think it’s one nifty sipper, and packs a pretty pulverizing punch while pampering the palate.

The name, by the way, comes from the cajun term for a get together, conversation.. I think the description in Boudreaux’s Cajun Party Guide describes it better than I could.

Routinely, in the wintertime, Cajun families and neighbors get together for a Veilleés (vay-yay). Everyone passes a good time talking to each other, sharing stories, and singing songs over coffee and deserts.

This drink was made alongside a few good evenings of conversation, and after a few of these, you’ll definitely be vay-yaying all over the place.

Veilleés Punch

Veilleés Punch

  • 2 parts White Grapefruit Juice (Oroblanco)
  • 2 parts Strong Black tea (cold)
  • 1 part Pimento Liqueur (substitute allspice syrup if none available)
  • 3 parts Old New Orleans Amber Rum
  • 1 part Martell VSOP Cognac (float)

Single: Use 1/2 Ounce as the part. Shake all ingredients except cognac with ice, strain into a rocks glass with fresh ice. Float cognac.

Punch: Portion with 1/2 Ounce as the part, as many servings as you estimate guests will imbibe. Fill a punch bowl halfway with ice, pour all ingredients except cognac in a separate container and stir. Pour the mix over ice. Keep the cognac in a decanter on the side for guests or bartenders to float for each guest.

Allspice Syrup: (slow method) steep ground allspice berries in water for 3 days. Strain the water with a coffee filter and pour into a pot, add heat, and mix 1:1 with cane sugar to make a simple syrup.

Allspice Syrup: (fast method) Place whole allspice berries in a pot, cover with water and add heat. Once it hits a boil let it simmer for 20 minutes. Strain out the berries, and mix 1:1 with cane sugar to make a simple syrup.

What I tried to do here is capture the essence of the New Orleans Amber rum. It’s a good product by itself, and its characteristics lend towards a spicy concoction. It doesn’t have much in the way of bitterness, so I thought the Oroblanco would lend its subtle bitterness to the complexity of the drink. I may have committed a mortal sin in floating the cognac, but the flavor didn’t play well intertwined with the other ingredients. As a float, the entryway to the drink, it acts as a bit of a high-class buffer. It gives the drink a lot of character on the nose, which works very well with the flavor of the rest of the drink, and adds a nice finishing note as well.

The Pimento Dram is tops, giving a bit more heat and the allspice character to the drink. I used Chuck Taggart’s recipe, as featured in Imbibe magazine. The Allspice syrup is still fantastic, and actually makes for a slightly smoother, even eminently quaffable drink. The Dram is best for full complexity, slow method allspice better than fast, but I think that’s generally expected. Time is so often a great contribution to flavor.

Well, here’s to crossing my fingers that this sucker gets tried and tried right. Cheers to a fantastic event, no matter whom the winner of this contest may be.